Introduction
I began my research with a number of expectations; that was to document the Mongolian dress we in the SCA commonly wear. What follows are my initial impressions of Mongolian dress.
I hope this fascinating exploration will provide those who recreate Mongolian personas fertile ground from which to enhance and explore the garments they live, love and fight in.
I felt that there had to be definitive documentation of what the Mongols wore during their occupation of most of the world. What I found supprised me in the variety and colors of what they wore. How these clothing was influenced by the people who's land they occupied and what might have happened to them after they left. In this paper I will try to show what was worn by the various people as they rode, warred and officiated those they conquered.
Ghengis Khan's ambition was far-reaching and persuasive. Within his lifetime he conquered, invaded and traded with peoples as far reaching as China, Korea, India, Persia and Moscow. His four sons continued his path of conquest into Southern China and East of Persian. The Mongolia Horde continued to live, propagate and assimilate the lives, culture and dress of the people they conquered over the next 100 years.
Clothing of the pre-Ghengis era Mongols
Winters and summers in Mongolia were harsh. Even in the summer, they dressed in layers. This allowed for levels of comfort in all sorts of weather. The primary material for clothing was fur and felt. The felt was thick wool from sheep, yaks and camels. The Mongols traded fur and wool for various items including silk. It is believed that their inner clothing was made of silk, while outer garments were either silk, felt or fur. Outer coats were made of fur or silks lined in fur. Documentation suggests that Ghengis Khan had required all solders to wear silk undershirts to protect against arrows.
The basic pattern of the body garments seem to be unvaried and simple. The most basic item of the Mongolian dress is a robe. The robe has a distinctive cross over closure. The under garment would typically be of white silk. Layered on this garment would be an “over” robe made of silk, felt or fur. The choice of fabric would be influenced by location and activity. In the winter they would additionally wear an over coat that, unlike the robe, would close down the center front and typically be made of fur or silk and fur.
Documentation indicates that women wore a leg covering similar to our modern western chaps. The utilitarian nature of this garment asserts itself when we recognize the percentage of time the Mongols spent on horseback. It is my believed that the garment was common to both men and women.
It was most common for the body garments to be belted with either a cloth or leather sash.
Creative and imaginative variations for hats can be found. Gugu Guan was a type of hat approximately two feet high, made of birch and covered with either red or black silk, and toped with willow branches and pheasant feathers. The prowess of a legendary warrior woman made this a revered style.
Typically Mongolian men would wear a fur line nap length hood. Summertime hats were of straw. And red bandana-like head coverings were additionally common. A double brimmed folded hat or single brimmed cap of fur can also be documented. Men and women can also be found to be wearing a type of scull cap made of fur and patterned fabric.
Clothing of the Chinese occupation (Yuan Dynasty)
The Mongols during their Chinese occupation where the aristocracy and wore expensive and uncommon clothing, different then that of the Chinese commoner.
Clothing of court officials and their families were subject to regulation. Regulation dictated robe colors and designs for those who had business in court. I believe that the gold embroidery on the shoulders and knees might have to do with these regulations.
Khubali, Ghenis Khans' son and the first Yuan dynasty Khan, wore Chinese clothing often while on the throne. Chabi, Khubali's first wife, invented a hat with a brim and a sleeveless over coat for the Mongol horsemen influenced by Chinese clothing.
Clothing of the Persian occupation (Il-Khanates)
The Mongols in Persian took their lead from Yuan dynasty directly influenced by gifts from the Yuan Khan. Muslim assimilation began to influence clothing styles most notable the wearing of the turban.
Even after conversion, women still maintained their Mongol manner of being out in public. The temperature was hotter, clothing documented was of silk or cotton and looser in style. Many illustrations of the gold embroidery in court scenes speak that they might have instituted the same system of levels as the Yuan.
Ultimately, clothing became more and more like that of the local population. And women were less and less prominent in the illustrations of the time. By the time of Timerlane they had assimilated into the Muslim culture past the point of differentiation.
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